My colleague and I were in Hyderabad in the winter of 2019, on a month-long work assignment. We were getting bored over the weekends, and we had already visited the places of interest in Hyderabad and Bidar. So we decided to make a trip to Warangal and nearby places of Laknavaram Lake and Ramappa Temple.
Warangal is situated at a distance of around 150 KM from the state capital Hyderabad. Known for its rich history, the region flourished culturally under the Kakatiya dynasty between the 12th and 14th century AD. It was later conquered by the Bahmani Sultanate, followed by the Mughals, when the city was badly destroyed. The remnants of monuments, forts and temples that lay scattered serve as a witness to the glorious past. Marco Polo, the famous Italian explorer and writer, had spoken highly of Warangal and the then ruler Rudrama Devi in his travelogue: The Travels of Marco Polo.
The Plan for the day:
One can cover the popular tourist attractions within the Warangal city within a couple of hours. So, we decided to visit the Laknavaram Lake and Ramappa Temple first, and then come back to Warangal to visit these places.
In and around Warangal, there are several lakes like Laknavaram Lake, Pakhal Lake etc. that serve as popular weekend getaways. We chose Laknavaram due to its proximity to the Ramappa Temple, so that both the places can be clubbed together.
Our train (Secunderabad – Guntur Express) started from Secunderabad around 7.40 AM. It took us around two and half hours to reach Warangal. The return train to Hyderabad was in the evening, and we had around 7 hours in our hand.
Ola cabs now serve the triplet cities of Warangal, Kazipet and Hanamkonda. As our train chugged into the platform, we booked an Ola for the entire day. By the time we came out of the station, the car was waiting for us.
Laknavaram Lake:
Laknavaram is at a distance of around 75 KM from the Warangal Railway station. The journey was mostly smooth, as we travelled through a national highway. But for the last few Kilometers, the drive was through a bumpy road.
Laknavaram Cheruvu (i.e. Lake in the local language) is massive and spread over an area of 10,000 acres. Small hills and a lush green forest surround the lake, which has 13 islands of different sizes. Rulers of the Kakatiya dynasty constructed the lake and it still serves as the source of irrigation water for the nearby villages.
After getting down from our car, we approached a suspension bridge that took us to the main island. Walking over the hanging bridge was itself exhilarating, with the structure swaying from time to time due to the movement of the tourists. We were mesmerized by the tranquil blue water, occasionally muddled by fast moving speedboats.
This main island provides basic amenities for a day outing. It has a restaurant and restrooms for public usage and also a government run hotel for lodging.
There is a small sandy beach on the other side, where you can spend hours gazing at the alluring landscape around. Far away from the busy city life, it must also be captivating for the tourists staying in the island at night.
Back to reality from day-dreaming, we headed towards the ticket counter for a boat ride. Our Pantoon boat ride was mesmerizing, which lasted for only 15 minutes. It took us around the lake, and near few of the islands.
Back to the main island, we ordered for some quick bite at the restaurant. As we were running short of time, we gobbled up the food. Then we came back to the car parking by crossing another hanging bridge.
If you have time in hand, you can indulge into various recreational activities arranged by the state forest department. These include forest safari, bullock cart ride, camping etc. You can also explore the forest area on your own.
Ramappa Temple and Lake:
On the way back to Warangal, we took a diversion from the highway to reach Palampet, where the Ramappa Temple is located. The temple got its name after the architect and not after the god worshipped inside. This Shiva temple was built in 1213 AD and is a living example of the illustrious history of the Kakatiya dynasty.
The Garbhagriha, or the sanctum sanctorum, contains a black basalt Shiva Linga. The other structures in the compound consist of a Nandi mandapa, the Kameswara shrine, the Kateswara shrine and an inscribed pillar.
The intricate carvings on the walls and pillars of the temples awed us. There are exquisite sculptures narrating the stories from Ramayana and Shiva Purana.
The Kakatiya rulers also constructed the Ramappa Lake, located close to the temple. This place is also serene and you can spend your time idling around. But, I personally liked the Laknavaram Lake more.
In and around city of Warangal:
From Palampet, it took us around one and half hours to reach the Thousand Pillar Temple or the Rudreshwara Swamy Temple in Hanamkonda. King Rudra Deva built it in 1163 AD. The structure of the temple resembles a star, and depicts a late Chalukyan and an early Kakatiyan style of architecture. Its pillars and outer walls are ornately decorated with beautiful carvings. Lord Shiva, Vishnu and the Sun god are worshipped here.
After hearing the name of the Thousand Pillar Temple, if you are trying to imagine how large the temple is, then you will be disappointed, like we were. The temple is actually not at all big and I still wonder whether such a structure really has that many pillars!!!
From here, we started towards the Bhadrakali Temple, a temple of Goddess Kali with 8 hands. There is also a large lake adjacent to the temple. But unfortunately, due to a political rally, the road towards the temple was closed. So, we aborted our plan and took a longer route to reach the Warangal Fort.
This fort was another disappointing part of our trip. The fort compound resembled more of a rock garden and less of a fort. Here, the remnants of gateways, arches and temples, exquisite sculptures, idols and statues lay scattered inside a large landscaped garden criss-crossed by concrete pathways.
A Kakatiya Kala Thoranam (or Warangal Gate), a spectacular grand sculpture depicting an arch or a gateway, adorns each of the four sides of the compound. This structure has now been adopted as the symbol of the Kakatiya Dynasty and used as the official emblem of the state of Telangana.
The authorities conduct a laser show every evening within the fort complex that will take you to the bygone era.
On the way to the Warangal Railway station, we came across on our left, a large ruined structure. This walled enclosure actually resembled that of the outer walls a fort. Google Maps identified the place as the “Fort Warangal Ground“. We got down from the car and took a stroll inside its boundary.
This was the last point of our hectic but interesting outing. Our driver bid us good bye at the Warangal Railway station as we waited for our train to Hyderabad.
Some useful tips and information:
How the trip could have been better:
With multiple modes of transport, i.e. metro within Hyderabad city, train to Waranagal and then hiring a car, our day trip became very hectic. It could have been better, had we hired a car directly from Hyderabad. On the other hand, with a night stay at Laknavaram, the trip would have been even more enjoyable.
How to travel to Warangal, Laknavaram, Palampet:
There are numerous trains from Hyderabad or Secundrabad to Warangal and Kazipet. There are also a regular bus services from Hyderabad MGBS bus stand to Hanamkonda.
Outside the Warangal railway station, there is a government bus stand. From here, you will get buses to Palampet or Govindaraopet for Ramappa Temple or Laknavaram Lake respectively. But there is no direct public transport for the last-mile connectivity, and you would need to make your own arrangement. In my opinion, it would be better to rent a car from Warangal or Hyderabad to visit these places.
Where to stay:
The Telangana government-run Haritha group of hotels provide lodging facilities in their lake-side resorts in Laknavaram and Ramappa. It would surely be a unique experience to spend a night here amidst the nature. But you need to book the rooms in advance, as they are always in great demand.
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