It was the sunny afternoon of October 31, 2023 when our bus chugged out of the stand in Siem Reap. We spent our last 3 nights in Siem Reap, exploring the Angkor Wat group of temples and Kulen Mountain, and now we were on the way to Phnom Penh, the capital city of Cambodia.
Situated at the confluence of the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers, Phnom Penh is the most populous and most urbanized city of the country. It is a must visit place for every traveller who wishes to learn the rich Khmer culture, and also the country’s tragic past that wiped off millions of innocent Cambodians in 1970s.
I have also written a separate blog on How to plan for a trip to Cambodia. It has the details of the important places of interest, how to reach, best time to visit, how to apply for Visa, Cambodian currency and many other topics. That article will guide you to plan a visit to the country on your own, and you will find it here: Cambodia Travel Guide.
Our Itinerary for the Cambodia Trip:
- Day 1: Start from Kolkata International Airport around midnight, and after a layover in Bangkok, land at the Siem Reap Angkor Airport around 11 AM. Visit the Buddhist monasteries of Wat Bo, Wat Damnak and Wat Preah Prom Rath, and also visit the Pub Street.
- Day 2: Visit Angkor Archaeological Park.
- Day 3: Visit Kulen Mountain and rest of the Angkor Archaeological Park.
- Day 4:
- Visit the Royal Independence Garden, Royal Residence and Angkor National Museum.
- Travel from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh by Bus.
- Visit the Sisowath Quay or Riverside Park in Phnom Penh.
- Day 5: Phnom Penh local sightseeing –
- Royal Palace & Silver Pagoda
- Wat Botum Park & Cambodia Vietnam Friendship Monument
- Statue of Norodom Sihanouk
- The Independence Monument
- Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum
- Choeung Ek Genocidal Center (or the Killing Fields)
- Wat Phnom Temple
- Sunset Cruise in the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers
- Night Market
- Day 6: Visit the National Museum and the Wat Ounalom Monastery in the morning. Check-out from hotel to catch the 2.25 PM flight to Kuala Lumpur and then to Kolkata.
Reaching Phnom Penh:
There are a lot of private bus operators that run AC buses and vans between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. After reading good reviews about the ‘Air’ bus of Virak Buntham, we purchased tickets of their 1.45 PM bus for $17.50. The travel was super smooth in a Mercedes bus, as we glided through the Cambodian countryside. It reminded me of the Indian countryside, as we passed by numerous paddy fields, bordered by array of coconut and palm trees.
During the journey, we were served hot cup noodles, tea/ coffee, candies and a snack (with the option of burger, spaghetti, fried rice or sandwich), all included in the ticket price.
We reached Phnom Penh around 7.30 PM and hired a tuktuk (the ones we call auto-rickshaw in India) to reach the Okay Palace Hotel, some 2 KM away.
Sisowath Quay or the Riverside Park:
After freshening up in our hotel room, we headed for Sisowath Quay or Sisowath Riverside Park, a short walk away. It is a 3 KM long riverside promenade or boulevard along the Tonle Sap River. This vibrant place is lined with palm trees, small parks, restaurants and pubs, and frequented by tourists and locals alike all through the day.
Exhausted by the long bus journey, we searched for a bench. As we settled down over a cup of hot coffee, the not-so-tired kiddos got busy with some rides in the adjacent park. The cool river breeze was very much refreshing on a hot evening, as we enjoyed the sight of illuminated tourist boats passing by.
It was 9 PM when we got up, crossed the road and went to the Olala restaurant. The menu was a mix of Khmer, Chinese and Continental style. The food was delicious and the price was pocket friendly.
Sightseeing in Phnom Penh:
After a good night’s sleep in our large family room in the Okay Palace Hotel, we got ready early. A good sumptuous buffet spread ensured that our tummy remained filled for long in case we don’t get a good lunch option during the day ahead.
Our hotel was very conveniently located, with the National Museum and the Royal Palace just at a stone’s throw distance.
Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda:
Our first stop of the day was at the Royal Palace. It was constructed around 1866, and since then it is the official residence of the King of Cambodia. It is a large complex with nice manicured gardens & flower beds and buildings depicting the Khmer form of art.
Arguably the most popular attraction in the city, the important buildings here are the Royal Residence, Throne Hall and Silver Pagoda. They are open to the visitors, but photography is not allowed within the exhibition halls.
Wat Botum Park and Cambodia Vietnam Friendship Monument:
Near the exit gate of the Royal Palace is the Wat Botum Park – a nicely maintained park with a variety of flowers.
At the other end of the park is the Cambodia Vietnam Friendship Monument. It was erected in 1979 to commemorate the sacrifice of the Cambodians during the Vietnam War and also the help by the Vietnamese Army to liberate Cambodia from the tyrannical and oppressive Khmer Rouge rule.
Statue of Norodom Sihanouk:
From the Cambodia Vietnam Friendship Monument, we took a right turn and came to the Norodom Sihanouk Memorial. It was constructed in 2013 and has a bronze statue of former king Norodom Sihanouk housed inside an open stupa.
The Independence Monument:
Around 100 meters from the Statue of Norodom Sihanouk, in the middle of a traffic island is the Independence Monument. This lotus shaped stupa was built in 1958 and commemorates Cambodia’s independence from the French rule in 1953.
Till the Independence Monument, we visited all the places by foot. But now, it was time to hire a tuktuk (an auto rickshaw) or a remorque (a spacious trailer pulled by a motorbike).
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum:
As we entered the premises of the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, it was time to dive into the gruesome history of Cambodian genocide, when more than 2 million innocent Cambodians were killed between 1975 and 1979 during the regime of Khmer Rouge and its oppressive ruler Pol Pot. They targeted mostly the educated population of the society, which included government officials, teachers, doctors, engineers and even Buddhist monks.
The site of the present day museum was originally a high school, which was converted into the Security Prison 21 (or S-21 in short), a detention centre cum prison. It was one of the 196 prisons in the country during the Khmer Rouge rule. Anyone taken to S-21 was meant to be tortured and eventually killed.
The classrooms of the school were divided into narrow cells, where the prisoners were forced to stay under inhuman and unhygienic living conditions. During this time, an estimated 20,000 people had been jailed here.
The prison was converted into a museum in 1979 after the freedom from the oppressive rule. Some of the rooms and the cells have been preserved in their original shape to provide a testimony of the ghastly past. The museum also exhibits the photos of the prisoners as well as the artefacts used by them, like the clothes, shoes etc. It also displays paintings by the survivors that depict the sheer brutality meted out to the prisoners by the guards.
We hired an audio guide at the entrance, which helped us understand the history of the genocide and guided us through every part of the prison. It took us around 1.5 hours to visit all the rooms of the museum.
Choeung Ek Genocidal Center:
Situated in the outskirts of the city, Choeung Ek Genocidal Center or the Killing Fields is synonymous to the Tuol Sleng or S-21. Separated by 11 KM from each other, Choeung Ek was a grisly killing field cum graveyard of Cambodians detained at several prisons.
After the fall of Khmer Rouge, mass graves containing almost 9000 bodies were unearthed here. No one was spared, not even women and small children.
At the centre of the field is a memorial, a Buddhist stupa, that houses a tower of glass cabinet containing the skulls of the victims. Most of these skulls have deep cut and injury marks.
Here also, we were provided audio guides that escorted us around the place. Walking along the ground, under the shade of trees and passing by the water bodies seemed very peaceful at present, only to be awakened by the audio guide narrating the horror unfolded by the Khmer Rouge.
We visited the graves and pits and the glass cases displaying the clothes and bones of the victims.
After spending around 1 hour, we came out of Choeung Ek around 3 PM. We couldn’t find much food options outside. We found a shop selling jumbo sized green coconuts. The white cream inside the coconut shells along with the dry food that we carrying with us were enough to satiate our hunger.
Wat Phnom Temple:
From Choeung Ek, we booked a tuktuk for coming back to the city centre, as we moved to our next destination – the Wat Phnom Temple.
It is a small Buddhist pagoda, perched on top of a small hillock and accessible by a flight of stairs. Wat Phnom is the only temple or monastery that we visited in Siem Reap or Phnom Penh, were the entry is chargeable for foreigners ($ 1).
The central shrine has a bronze statue of Buddha, surrounded by other statues and items of worship. A lot of trees surround the temple, and it is a great place to relax in tranquillity.
Sunset Cruise in the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers:
When in Phnom Penh, you should not miss a cruise along the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers. There are several tour companies along the Tonle Sap Riverfront, and they normally operate from 5 PM till late in the evening. Each of these trips lasts between 1 and 1.5 hours. There are different types of cruise options like the Sunset cruise, Evening cruise, Private boat rides, cruise including food or dinner etc.
We had read good reviews about the Crocodile Cruise, and opted for the Sunset cruise. Their office was at a walkable distance from Wat Phnom, and the ticket cost us $ 5 (without any food or drinks). It was a large boat, with an upper and a lower deck. There was a live kitchen, where tourists ordered for food.
We started around 5.15 PM, when the Sun started leaning towards the western horizon. As we sailed through the Tonle Sap, the city looked beautiful in the golden glows of the setting Sun. Unfortunately, the sky was cloudy and the sunset was not that majestic as we had expected. We moved forward as we met the Mekong River – at its other shore was Vietnam. As it started getting darker, we turned back towards Phnom Penh. By now, the city was fully illuminated. As we passed the Royal Palace and the Wat Ounalom Monastery, they looked spectacular.
Night Market:
As we walked along the riverfront, we came across the Night Market. It is a vibrant place with lots of shops selling items ranging from daily needs to clothes, shoes, bags, jewellery etc. The crowd was spirited with a live music performance in the background.
It is also a food lovers’ paradise. The food stalls form a large circle, with a covered open space in the middle that has mats spread out. They sell a variety of meat delicacies ranging from chicken, mutton, beef and pork to prawns, shrimps, squids and snails, accompanied by noodles and fried rice. We tried kebabs, sea food noodles and some Khmer dishes and concluded our meal with an ice cream in a coconut shell. They felt heavenly.
After dinner, we walked along the riverfront and came back to our hotel. It was our last night at Phnom Penh and we still had the National Museum left to explore the next day morning. So, we packed our bags and retired early.
Morning walk along the Sisowath Riverfront:
It was cloudy and was drizzling when we woke up early in the morning. As we freshened up and had our breakfast, the weather gradually turned sunny. We went out for a walk along the riverside. The same place that we visited under the evening lights looked so different now, with the sunrays reflecting on the clear river water. Lots of local residents had some for their morning walk and exercise. We lazily strolled along the promenade, frequently stopping to adore the beauty of the city.
Wat Ounalom Monastery:
After a while, we turned back and headed to the Wat Ounalom Monastery. It is a Buddhist temple located on the main road at Sisowath Quay. The decoration of the temple as well as the Buddhist statues inside is golden in colour.
Wat Ounalom is the most important monastery of the city, and the main stupa inside the complex is believed to have preserved the eyebrow hair of Lord Buddha.
The National Museum:
Visiting the National Museum of Cambodia is a delight to every traveller interested in the Khmer art, culture and history. Spread across multiple galleries, the artefacts include items from Pre-Angkorian, Angkorian and post-Angkorian periods. Apart from the beautifully sculpted statues and idols, we found on display items of daily use, weapons, utensils etc made of metal and ceramic.
Apart from the displayed artifacts, what attracted us here is the museum building itself. This red limestone coloured building is inspired by the traditional Khmer temple architecture and resembles a pagoda. The galleries are on all 4 sides, and there is an open courtyard and garden in the middle, with a small pool and a statue of Lord Buddha.
Photography is not allowed inside the exhibition halls, but there is a catch here – you cannot use your camera, but the authorities allow clicking photos using your mobile phone.
Good bye Cambodia:
We took around 2 hours to explore the museum and then came back to our hotel. That marked the end of our nice little trip to Cambodia. What we explored in these few days, from the architectural marvel of Angkor Wat to the Genocide Museum & Killing Fields will etch in our memory in the years to come.
Our flight to Kuala Lumpur (and then to Kolkata) was at 2.30 PM, and we bid goodbye to Okay Palace around 11.30 by hiring a remorque.
Some useful information and tips:
How to reach Phnom Penh:
Phnom Penh has its own international airport, and has direct fight connectivity to all major South East Asian countries.
Tourists visiting neighbouring countries like Vietnam and Thailand can also cross land borders by bus or car.
From Kolkata (India), we first visited Siem Reap, and then travelled to Phnom Penh by bus. There are quite a few bus companies that operate between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. Most of the vehicles that ply are large AC vans, and there are a few AC buses also.
We read good reviews about Virak Buntham, especially about their AC ‘Air’ Bus. So, we opted for the afternoon 1.45 PM bus. It cost us $17.50, which included a free pickup from hotel and also Tea/coffee, cup noodles, candies and snacks (with the option of burger, spaghetti, fried rice or sandwich). It was a super smooth journey in a Mercedes Benz bus that took a little less than 6 hours.
How to move around in Phnom Penh:
Phnom Penh is a city that you would love to walk and explore. That is exactly what we did. In fact, only for visiting Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields, we hired a Tuktuk or a Remorque. Even for travelling to the airport for our return journey, we booked a remorque.
A Tuktuk is a three wheeled vehicle, what we call an Auto Rickshaw in India. Remorque is more spacious than tuktuk, and consists of a carriage or trailer that is pulled by a motorbike. You will find tuktuks and remorques all over the city, whose drivers will approach you at every step. But to avoid bargaining and overpricing, you should install either Grab or PassApp app in your phone to book rides on the go. We used Grab, and it was very convenient and price was also reasonable.
Best Time to Visit Cambodia:
Cambodia has a tropical climate, and it is mostly warm or hot and humid throughout the year. The best time to visit the country is between November and February, when the temperature is down by a few notches. Although the country receives intermittent rain throughout the year, it is better to avoid the peak rainy season from May till October.
Where to stay in Phnom Penh and Review of Okay Palace Hotel:
Of all the localities in Phnom Penh, it is advisable to stay in the Doun Penh area, so that most of the places of interest (except the Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields) are at a walking distance. But, you should avoid the hotels on the riverfront, as the entire surrounding is very loud due to the string of pubs and restaurants that stay open well past midnight.
We stayed for 2 nights at the Okay Palace Hotel. It is very conveniently located in an alley off the main road, and at a stone’s throw distance from the National Museum on one side and Royal Palace on the other. We had booked a Family room. The room was large, with 2 Queen sized beds, a sofa and an attached balcony. The bathroom was also big.
The ambience of the hotel and reception was great, with nice decorations, paintings and statues.
For breakfast and swimming pool, we had to go to the adjacent Okay Boutique Hotel. The buffet breakfast was included in our room rent, and the spread was nice. It cost us around $33 per night (including all taxes).
But, the “hospitality” was clearly missing in the staff in the Okay Palace; and they were very much stereotype.
Is Phnom Penh safe for tourists?
I had read in several travel forums that tourists raised concerns or asking fellow travellers whether Phnom Penh is safe. A few travellers seemed to have faced petty crimes like snatching or pick pocketing.
Frankly speaking, we didn’t face any untoward incident. On both the evening that we stayed in the city, we walked most of the time we were outside and even returned to our hotel late at night.
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