Kashmir is popularly known as the Heaven on Earth due to its unparalleled natural beauty. The gem on this crown of Kashmir is Pahalgam. Boasting of the verdant green meadows of Betaab Valley, Chandanwari, Aru Valley and Baisaran, and surrounded by the snow capped Himalayan peaks, Pahalgam is the dream destination for every nature lover. Here, one can easily lose track of time sitting on the banks of the pristine Lidder river, that originates from the holy Amarnath caves and meets the mighty Jhelum downstream.
Pahalgam, literally meaning the Valley of Shepherds, is located in the Anantanag district of Jammu and Kashmir, at a distance of 90 KM from Srinagar and 240 KM from Jammu. Pahalgam is also strategically important as it one of the starting points of the Amarnath yatra (the other being Sonmarg).
I have written a separate blog on how to plan for a trip to the Kashmir Valley. It has the details of the important places to visit, how to reach, best time to visit, local Kashmiri food, hotels & restaurants, restriction on using Mobile SIM cards and many other topics. That article will guide you to plan a visit to the majestic valley on your own, and you will find it here: Kashmir Travel Guide.
Our Itinerary:
Our visit to Pahalgam was in the last leg of our 8 nights / 9days of Kashmir trip during the summer of 2023, where our itinerary was:
- Day 1: Catch early morning flight from Kolkata and reach Srinagar via Delhi. In the evening, Shikara ride in the Dal Lake to visit Open Lake, Lotus Lake, Meena Bazar Floating Market, followed by shopping at Lal Chowk. Overnight at Srinagar.
- Day 2 – Day trip to Sonmarg. Horse ride to Thajiwas Glacier. Due to lack of time, we couldn’t visit Kheer Bhavani temple on the way back to Srinagar. Overnight at Srinagar.
- Day 3 – Check-out from Srinagar hotel and visit Doodhpathri. Then travel to Gulmarg. Walk around Gulmarg town. Overnight at Gulmarg.
- Day 4 – Gandola ride (Phase 1 and Phase 2) in Gulmarg. Return to Srinagar by evening. Overnight at Srinagar.
- Day 5 – Srinagar Local sightseeing – Shankaracharya Temple, Four Mughal Gardens (Chashma Shahi, Pari Mahal, Nishat Bagh, Shalimar Bagh), Hazrat Bal Dargah, Jamia Masjid, Shikara ride in Dal Lake to visit the Char Chinar Island. Overnight at Srinagar.
- Day 6 – Check-out from Srinagar hotel and visit Yusmarg and Charar-e-Sharif. Then travel to Pahalgam. Overnight at Pahalgam.
- Day 7 – Local sightseeing in Pahalgam – Aru Valley, Betaab Valley, Chandanwari. We didn’t go to Baisaran Valley as we felt that the horse ride is risky. Overnight at Pahalgam.
- Day 8 – Visit Pahalgam Golf Course. Then travel from Pahalgam to Srinagar. On the way, visit: Apple Orchard, Martand Sun Temple, Awantipora ruins, Cricket bat factory and Kesar shops of Pampore. Overnight at Srinagar.
- Day 9 – Check-out from Srinagar hotel and return to Kolkata.
Day 6 – Yusmarg to Pahalgam: Pampore, Cricket Bat Factory, Apple orchards:
The rain had stopped by the time we started from Yusmarg around 1.30 PM.
Google Maps was showing a shortcut towards Anantanag-Pahalgam, but our driver Zahoor bhai spoke to the locals and came to know that the condition of that road was not so good. So, we took a longer route via Pampore.
Famous for Saffron cultivation, Pampore bears a spectacular vista during the harvest time of mid-October to mid-November. On both sides of the Jammu-Srinagar highway, you will find saffron fields, followed by shops selling saffron and other dry fruits. If you want to buy authentic saffron, you must come here. Elsewhere in Kashmir, there is a chance of getting cheated.
We stopped at one of the shops – Red Pearl Saffron – and purchased some saffron and a box of instant mix of Kashmiri Kehwa.
Kehwa (or kahwa) is a tea based drink that is only available in the Kashmir valley. Boiling the tea leaves with saffron, cinnamon, cardamom and honey, and garnished with thin of slices of dry fruits (like almond and walnut), kehwa rejuvenates you instantly, especially when it is cold. We had a quick sip of hot kehwa from the shop adjacent to Red Pearl Saffron, and then made a move towards Pahalgam.
On the way, we zipped passed numerous Cricket bat factories cum shops at Hallamulla. Most of the cricket bats produced in India is made from the Kashmiri willow trees.
Reaching Pahalgam:
After an hour’s travel from Pampore, we stopped at a place with Apple orchards on both sides of the road. Here, local apple producers have setup stalls to sell freshly made apple juice (without any added sugar or water). The juice was so amazing that, we stopped there again during our return journey. We also purchased a bottle of apple pickle and apricot jam from the shop.
Soon after, the pristine Lidder river started giving us company. It was love at the first sight, and we stopped the car a couple of times along the river bank to admire its beauty.
We found a groups of tourists indulged in water rafting in the river.
Just before entering the Pahalgam town, we again stopped along the Lidder at the Pahalgam Selfie Point, with the ‘I Love Pahalgam‘ signage. It is a well maintained place, where tourists endeavour for the perfect picture with the unspoilt river.
In Pahalgam, we had our booking for the next 2 nights at the Paradise Guest House, located 1 KM further down from the Pahalgam Main Market, inside a lane off the Chandanwari Road. Although the property is a bit old, the main plus point is its location – just on the bank of the Lidder river. After quickly completing the check-in formalities, we went to the river bank. It is a private area, solely accessible to the boarders of the property.
We sat there for some time, which seemed like an eternity, staring at the fierce river and the snow capped mountain peaks, and getting lost. It was after 7.30 PM that it started getting dark, and we got up and came back to our room.
Day 7 – Local sightseeing in Pahalgam:
There are 2 major options for sightseeing in Pahalgam:
- Visit Aru Valley, Betaab Valley and Chandanwari (in short A-B-C valleys) by hiring a local union cab. Betaab and Chandanwari are on the same route, at a distance of 7 KM and 16 KM respectively from Pahalgam market; and Aru is 12 KM from the marketplace in another direction.
- Visit Baisaran Valley (popularly known as Mini Switzerland) by riding a horse for 6 KM.
Even before reaching Pahalgam, we had taken a conscious decision (after reading other travel blogs and watching YouTube videos) that we would not go for the horse ride to Baisaran. The entire path is full of rocks and it is so slushy and slippery that, it is common for the riders to fall off the horses’ back. Even there are cases when even the horses skid and fall along with the rider.
It had rained heavily the whole of last night, and the morning sky was overcast.
Local Union Cabs:
After having our breakfast, we called up the local taxi union for a car to visit A-B-C Valleys. There is a rate chart fixed by the authorities, and so there is no scope of over quoting prices and bargaining. For A-B-C, for example, the rate was Rs. 2350 in a Toyota Etios (sedan) car. At each of these valleys, you will get 1 hour of time to roam around. If you wish to spend more time, you need to pay Rs. 400 extra for each hour (upto 2 hours). After 2 such extra hours, you need to pay a full day’s charge (e.g. Rs. 3600 for Toyota Etios).
Our Etios reported at our hotel within 10 minutes. The driver, a man is his early fifties, broke our heart when he informed that due to the overnight rain and a subsequent landslide, the road to Aru Valley had been closed.
Chandanwari:
As we started for Betaab Valley and Chandanwari, it started raining again. The road, with Lidder river meandering alongside, and surrounded by snow-clad mountain peaks, is spectacular. We wished it to be not raining, so that we could make halts enroute.
We decided to go to Chandanwari first, as the parking gets full quickly as the day progresses and then visit Betaab Valley on our way back. It took us around 30 minutes to reach Chandanwari. It was still raining, but as the vehicle had a time restriction, we got down with our umbrellas and rain coats.
From the parking lot, we walked along a well paved road, dotted with stalls selling snacks and souvenirs, to reach the base of the glacier.
Engulfed by fog and cloud, the entire landscape, with high mountains on all sides and the river nonchalantly flowing by, looked stunning. It was cold due to the rain. So, we sat on a large boulder and had a cup of hot coffee.
The kids wanted to go for sledging along the slopes of the glacier. But the intensity of the rain increased, and so we shelved that plan. We took shelter in one of the wayside shops. Luckily it was selling souvenirs at a decent price, and we killed our time shopping for some gift items. After 10-15 minutes, as the rain subsided a little, we came back to our car.
Betaab Valley:
Hajan Valley or Hagan Valley (as it was originally known) got a new name after the Bollywood super hit film Betaab was shot here in 1983.
The landscape of the picturesque Betaab Valley is one of those perfect picture-postcards that you can imagine. Lying on the bank of the Lidder river, you will get a ‘bird’s eye view‘ of the captivating terrain from the road that connects Pahalgam with Chandanwari. But you have to come down to the valley to get the actual feel of one of the most astounding places in Kashmir.
The rain still didn’t yet relent when reached the parking lot of Betaab Valley. After paying an entry fee of Rs. 100 per adult (and Rs. 50 per child), we came inside the gates. As we had got a little drenched, we were feeling cold. We found a cafeteria and ordered maggi and hot chocolate. Re-energized, we decided to venture out. In the meantime, the rain had stopped and sky was starting to get clear.
Roaming around Betaab Valley:
We crossed a small bridge over the river to come to the other side. It is a large sprawling area, well maintained by the local authorities. The enchanting beauty of the lush green meadow, the smoky mountains and the rich vegetation of Pine, Deodar, Walnut and Willow trees, is a treat to the eyes. We took gentle steps as we circled round the place, appreciating the ethereal beauty of nature.
We literally lost track of time, when my phone started ringing. It was our driver, calling us to let us know that we are nearing 1 hour. We didn’t even cover half the place by then, and informed him that we wanted to spend an extra hour there.
As in other popular tourist spots in Kashmir, here also local Kashmiri dresses are available on rent, which you can wear and click a memory amidst the majestic surrounding.
We sat on the green velvet of grass, gazing at the mighty mountains at distance. The kids were overjoyed and started playing and running around.
As the clocked ticked ahead, we got up and walked along the river front and reached the bridge from where we started.
Downtown Pahalgam:
The downtown Pahalgam, centred around the Main Market, is a lively place; with shops, restaurants and banks on both sides of the main road.
It was late afternoon when our car dropped us here, and we were hungry. After having only non-veg food for the last few days, we wanted to try something vegetarian. So, we went inside the Dana Pani Restaurant, which serves pure vegetarian food. We ordered for Paneer Pasinda, Mixed vegetable curry, Makai roti and Butter Nan. The food was simply delicious.
After lunch, we went for some shopping. We bought packets of dried fruits (comprising dried apricot, cherry, black berry, kiwi etc) and gifts for relatives and friends.
We spent the rest of the evening on the bank of Lidder river at our hotel. Around 8 PM, we walked back to the market and headed towards the Royal Mughal Darbar Restaurant. The most popular dish here is the non-vegetarian Kashmiri Pulao. The pulao was served in a big bowl, with generous portions of Kebab, Paneer, Egg and dry fruits. It tasted heavenly.
A Kashmiri Wazwan is a multi-course meal consisting of 20-25 items. The main course is served a decorated copperware plate called trami, and the side dishes in copper pots. Till now, we had tasted individual dishes of Wazwan in different restaurants of Srinagar, so we ordered for a mini-Kashmiri Wazwan in Royal Mughal Darbar. The mini platter consisted of 8 non-vegetarian items (Mutton Rogan Josh, Tabak Maaz, Gostava, Methi maaz, Mutton sheekh kabab, Rista, Mirch Quorma etc. along with rice), and they also tasted very good.
Day 8 morning – Pahalgam Golf Course and Local Breakfast:
I woke up early in the morning, and was very delighted to find it to be a sunny day. The check-out time at the hotel was at 11 AM, and so I had a couple of hours to explore Pahalgam on my own.
I freshened up quickly, and went out. After around 800 meters towards the Market, a right turn near the Police station took me to the Lidder River Bridge.
The bridge itself is a very nice place for photography, with mountains all around and the river flowing in between. The river had an intoxicating effect on me. With no one around, I was transfixed to the spot for quite some time, until the silence was broken by a flock of sheep being controlled their shepherd.
Pahalgam Golf Course:
The sheep took a turn towards the Laripora village, and so did I. My intention was to visit the Lidder Valley Golf Course, located a Kilometer away from the river bridge. It was an uphill journey along the river. I took slow steps, stopping numerous times to adore the river at each turn. The ‘Love at first sight’ feeling that I had 2 days back has now turned into a permanent love – her sublime beauty had engrossed me completely.
After around 15 minutes of walk, I reached the entrance of the Golf course. I requested the security guard to grant me entry, and he happily obliged.
I was immediately mesmerized by the enchanting landscape – the green carpet of the golf course, bordered by the tall pine trees and guarded by the mountains. Today being sunny, the whole environment was even more breathtaking. There was no one else around (It seems the tourists normally don’t come this far). So, I sat on the green grass, feeling morose that we would have to leave the heaven behind in the next couple of hours.
After spending 20-25 minutes in the golf course, I came out of the main gate, and started walking further uphill and reached the Laripora village. Except the local village homes and a few hotels, there is nothing much here. So, I started my journey back.
Girda Roti:
With so much of walking I was feeling hungry by now. I came to the Market area, as I wanted to try the Girda Roti with tea, a staple breakfast of the Kashmiri people. A small lane beside the State Bank of India building took me to a little shop selling Girda roti. It is a thick flat bread, baked in a Tandoor oven. I bought 2 such rotis, and then went to adjacent tea stall. There I ordered for a cup of tea, and a cube of Amul butter to spread over the roti. And believe me, the freshly baked bread with a layer of butter and accompanied by tea, tasted simply marvellous. I had Girda roti a couple of time in Srinagar also, but nowhere had it tasted so soft and crispy.
Day 8 afternoon – Martand Sun Temple, Awantipora Ruins, Pampore:
We bid goodbye to Pahalgam around 11.30 AM and started our journey towards Srinagar. We took brief halts along the Lidder river and also at the Apple orchards.
Martand Sun Temple:
Our first major stop was at the Martand Sun Temple at Mattan. From the Anantanag Main road, we had to take a detour of around 3 KM along a hilly road to reach the remnants of the temple. It was constructed in the 8th Century AD by King Lalitaditya Muktapida and was dedicated to Martand, the Sun God. There is a main central shrine, with a garbhagriha (santum) and the inner rooms. The walls, with carvings of Lord Vishnu, human figures, floral decorations etc., speak volumes about the unique craftsmanship of that period. Scattered around the central shrine, are remains of pillars and other structures that lay in a disarray.
It was lunch time by now. We came down the hill to the Anantanag Main road, and headed towards the Sifar restaurant. I recommend everyone passing the area during lunch time to make a stop at Sifar. Apart from the delectable food, what will attract you here is the superb ambience. Try to sit in the open air (of course during the summer months), under one of the large umbrellas.
Awantipora Ruins – Avantiswami Temple and Avantiswara Temple:
Located on the banks of Jhelum River, the Avantiswami Temple was built by King Avantivarman in the 9th century AD and was dedicated to Lord Vishnu.
We visited the ruined central shrine and structures with intricate carvings on the walls and pillars, and were amazed by the artisanship of that era. With the backdrop of the Himalayan range, location wise also Avantiswami Temple will appeal to every visitor.
Avantiswara Temple, is located around 200 meters down the road. It was also built by King Avantivarman and was dedicated to Lord Shiva.
Pampore:
We again stopped on the Jammu-Srinagar Highway at Pampore. I had read somewhere that, the best Kehwa tea is available at the Tea shop beside the saffron shop of Noor Mohd Bhat. So, we went to the adjacent Kashmiri Kehwa House. The tea here tasted the almost the same (compared the one that we had during our ongoing journey at the Red Pearl Saffron), but here the amount of dry fruits was definitely more.
Some useful information and tips:
How to reach Pahalgam:
Pahalgam is located at a distance of 90 KM from Srinagar and 240 KM from Jammu. The most convenient way to reach Pahalgam from either of these 2 places is by hiring car. If you are looking for a budget trip, then you can take a train till Anantanag Railway station and then avail a shared car.
What is the best time to visit Pahalgam:
Kashmir is a place which you can visit in all seasons. The summer caters you to a green Kashmir with lots of foliage. Winters welcome you with a blanket of snow. From mid-March to mid-April, the added attraction is the Tulip festival. If you are visiting in October-November, you will be fascinated by the changing colour of the leaves of Chinar tree.
So, you can visit Pahalgam all throughout the year. But during the winter months, due to heavy snowfall, only the hotels on the main road, which are easily accessible, remain open. For example, the place where we stayed, the Paradise Guest House lies in an alley off the main road. So, it remains closed for 3-4 months in winter.
Review of Paradise Guest House:
The main advantage of Paradise Guest House is its location – just on the bank of the Lidder river, with a private area on the riverbank cordoned off for the guests.
The property itself is a bit old, and the room was small and lacks maintenance. But we didn’t mind, as we spent most of our time outside.
The guest house is run by 3 brothers, and their hospitability is commendable. From the check-in till check-out, they helped and guided us whenever needed. They have a small restaurant, where the food is made to order.
We paid Rs. 1800 for our double bed room, and Rs. 300 for an extra mattress and pillow.
Details of Car Rental:
We rented a Sedan car from a Srinagar based rental agency – Kashmir Car Rental (+91-88250-62819). As per our itinerary, the rental charges were Rs. 19,800 (Airport pickup on Day 1 to Airport drop on Day 9). That comes to Rs. 2200 per day. Zahoor Bhat (+91 70064 05231) was our driver for the entire trip. A perfect gentleman and guide, our Kashmir trip wouldn’t have been that smooth without Zahoor bhai.
But please remember that, your car from Srinagar or Jammu won’t be able to take you around in Pahalgam. You need to hire a separate car from the local taxi union, who have a fixed rate chart.
***********************************************************************************************
In the Comment Box at the end of the page, please leave a note of how you felt about my post.
If you like my posts, please allow me to send my next published post automatically to your Inbox. Please Subscribe in the form below, and Follow me on Instagram and Facebook.
Recent Comments