Unlike my other travelogues, this one is not based on a single trip. I had travelled to Hyderabad, the capital city of Telangana on a number of occasions – be it for work or for visiting friends and relatives. So, I had the opportunity to visit many places of varied interest and significance and to taste food in many restaurants. Through this blog, I would present my travel experiences and at the end would suggest a 2-day itinerary that can guide you during your trip.
If you are travelling to Hyderabad on business, you are very likely to miss this “heritage” city. Because, you would be in the middle of a busy metropolis, with large office buildings and residential complexes, sprawling shopping malls and hotels and flyovers criss-crossing the city. To get a feel of the “old charm” of the city, you have travel south to the banks of the Musi River. Here lie the monuments that serve as a witness to the history of the Nizams – the erstwhile rulers of the princely state of Hyderabad that consisted of large parts of today’s Telangana, Karnataka and Maharashtra. Welcome to the “old city” Hyderabad.
Old City to the south of River Musi:
Salar Jung Museum:
Situated on the southern bank of River Musi, this world famous museum houses the collections of the Salar Jungs, mainly Mir Yousuf Ali Khan popularly known as Salar Jung III. Mir Yousuf spent most of his life travelling around the globe, collecting antiques and artifacts. These priceless pieces of art are now exhibited in the museum that consists of 38 galleries spread across three blocks.
The galleries and blocks are designated according to the country of origin. The Indian block displays collections from across the length and breadth of the country, the Western block from Europe and the Eastern block from South-East Asia and the Middle East. The exhibits include magnificent stone, marble and bronze sculptures, exquisite glass specimens, intricate carvings on wood, ivory and jade, miniature and modern paintings, textiles, Porcelain ware, Bidri art, metal ware, manuscripts, arms, armours, old furniture and clocks and many more.
The original marble-chiselled sculpture of the Veiled Rebecca, the masterpiece by the Italian sculptor Giovanni Maria Benzoni, is arguably the most prized possession of the museum.
Tourists on a city tour usually avoid visiting a museum, as it eats up a lot of time. But I can assure, you will never regret a visit to this museum. You can easily spend an entire day appreciating the richness of the art and architecture displayed here.
For the benefit of the visitors, the museum authorities have arranged for benches and chairs, where you can rest in between the galleries. There is also a cafeteria that serves basic food.
Free Auto rickshaw ride ?
In this part of the city, that is, from Salar Jung Museum to Chowmahalla Palace, you will definitely be mobbed by auto rickshaw drivers. Whatever be your destination, they will coax you for a “free-ride” to nearby pearl and bangle shops. They make a commission out of the purchase that you make at these places. So, if you are interested in buying pearls and bangles and if you are good at bargaining, then definitely go for the “free ride”.
Chowmahalla Palace:
It was around 3 PM when we came out of the Salar Jung Museum. Without wasting much time, we boarded an auto and headed straight towards the Chowmahalla Palace, bypassing the Charminar.
Spread across a large compound, this elegant place was the residence of the Nizams of Hyderabad. As we entered through the main gate, we were impressed by the splendid palace building at a distance. In between, there is a manicured lawn interspersed by palm trees with beautiful fountains in the middle.
The main palace depicts a Mughal style of architecture, with magnificent arches and domes and ornate stucco work on the walls. The main attraction of this building is the grand Durbar Hall, where the Nizams held their court. An elevated marble platform represents the throne and the Belgian chandeliers hanging from the ceiling makes the atmosphere royal.
There are exhibition rooms bordering the Durbar hall, as well as at the upper level and in the backside of the building. The display of various items used by the royal family, like ceramic crockeries, clothes, furniture, metal ware and weapons completely engrossed us.
At the southern part of compound, there are a few more smaller palace buildings, with one of them exhibiting marble sculptures and furniture used by the royal family. At the end is an enclosure with a collection of vintage cars like Rolls Royce of 1912, a Ford Tourer of 1934, a Buick of 1947 etc.
Like the Salar Jung Museum, the authorities have laid benches along the gardens and under the shades, so that visitors can explore the place in a relaxed manner.
Charminar:
The iconic Char-minar or “Four minarets”, is synonymous to the city of Hyderabad. It is located at a short distance from the Chowmahalla Palace. Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, the fifth ruler of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, constructed the monument in 1591. Each of its four sides is characterized by a grand arch, and each corner has an exquisitely carved pillar or minaret with a dome on the top.
At the topmost level of the Charminar is a mosque, and the floor below is open for the general public. We got a bird’s eye view of the surrounding congested area from the balconies here. The interiors are nicely decorated with small arched structures and adorned by rich stucco work.
Encroached by stalls setup by hawkers and crowded by vendors, the beauty of this heritage monument has now been spoilt. Moreover, the attached scaffolding on one or more sides, due to the everlasting renovation work does not also help the cause.
Mecca Masjid:
Adjacent to the Charminar is the Mecca (or Makkah) Masjid. Situated inside a large compound, this imposing structure was built by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah. He brought some of the bricks used for the construction from the holy Mecca, and hence the name. We went inside the premises and took a much needed break on the steps that lead to the mosque, before taking a stroll around the place.
Marketplace around Charminar:
It was getting dark by the time we came out of the Mecca Masjid. The roads around Charminar were bustling with people – hawkers trying to persuade prospective customers, general tourists and local residents. A word of caution here – be extra careful about your belongings while walking through these crowded streets.
Lad Bazar, the adjoining market, is full of shops that sell Lacquered Bangles and Pearl-based ornaments. Here, you really have to bargain hard before settling for the final price.
Nizam Museum:
The Nizam’s Museum exhibits the gifts received by Osman Ali Khan Asaf Jah VII, the last Nizam of Hyderabad. The museum is located on the 1st floor of a two-storied building in the Purani Haveli. Apart from the souvenirs and mementos, the highlight of the place was the world’s largest wardrobe.
Compared to other places in the Old City, I didn’t find this place that interesting. You can skip it, if you are on a short visit to Hyderabad. Also, I didn’t find any justification for the steep Ticket Price (Entry Fee – Rs. 100 and Photography – Rs. 150, as of February 2020), if you compare with Chowmahalla Palace (Entry fee – Rs. 60) and Salar Jung Museum (Rs. 20).
Old City to the north of River Musi:
On the other bank of River Musi, and on the western part of Hyderabad lies the Golconda Fort. Nearby, is another popular tourist attraction – the Qutb Shahi Tombs.
Golconda Fort:
It was a clear and sunny morning of the Republic Day, when we went to visit the Golconda Fort. The Indian Tricolour flying high on the entrance of the fort made the place even more majestic.
The fort complex is a large fortified area which was developed mainly during the the Qutb Shahi Dynasty. Once inside the main entrance, known as the Fateh Darwaza, we came across well maintained lawns bordered by ruins of old structures. We walked towards the base of the stairs, from where it is an uphill journey towards the top of the fort.
The steps, although quite a few, didn’t pose much difficulty as they were not too steep. On the way, we came across the remnants of palaces, mosques, gateways and a prison. The hill-top pavilion provided a bird’s eye view of the Hyderabad city below.
It took us around two and half hours to visit the entire fort complex. We refreshed ourselves at the small canteen that sells some basic snacks and drinks.
In the evening, the fort authorities arrange for a Light and Sound show, which we didn’t have a chance to attend.
Qutb Shahi Tombs:
The sprawling area of the Qutb Shahi Heritage Park contains seven mausoleums built by the various rulers of the Qutb Shahi dynasty. The large structures with square base, pointed arches, minarets at all corners, intricate lime stucco work and bulbous domes represent a blend of Persian and Indian forms of art.
The grandest and the largest of the lot is the Tomb of Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah, the fifth king of the Qutb Shahi dynasty. It is a two-storied structure, with a wide terrace surrounding the central tomb. We loved the tranquility of the place, and spent some quality time relaxing.
Hussain Sagar Lake and Lumbini Park:
This heart-shaped lake is situated at the centre of the city. The Lumbini Park, situated at the southern bank of the lake, is equally popular among tourists and local residents. The major attraction here is the 17 meter high statue of Lord Buddha, located at the middle of the lake. It is carved out of a single granite rock. I have visited the place on multiple occasions. But it is most enthralling after dark, when the mystic colour of the light projected on the statue changes every minute.
There is a ferry service that takes visitors from the Lumbini Park to the island. You can spend some time there and then board another ferry to come back to the mainland. You can also avail the service of a speed boat, but that will not allow you to alight at the island.
The park also serves as an entertainment zone, with colourful waterfalls, fun activities and rides for all age groups. There are also small shops that sell variety of wares and some restaurants near the exit gate.
Every evening, the authorities conduct a Laser show on a water-screen, which portrays the culture and history of Hyderabad. Although not a must watch, you can enjoy the show if you have enough time in your hand.
Nehru Zoological Park:
Located in the outskirts of the city, the zoo is a popular place for a family outing. The Park itself is spread across a huge area, which can be covered by foot or by riding battery-operated vehicles. These vehicles dropped us at certain points, from where we had to walk back and forth to visit all the spots. We didn’t find them very useful, and felt that leisurely exploring the entire place by walking would have been better.
What we liked here is that the wild animals have the freedom to roam around within large open-air enclosures that resemble their natural habitats. An interesting part of the zoo is the Nocturnal House, where the night and day have been reversed artificially, so that these creatures are awake during the visitors’ day time. We also enjoyed the vast open-air park where lovely colourful butterflies were flying freely.
A Toy train makes rounds of the zoo compound at regular intervals. There is also a Lion safari, but it was closed at the time of our visit.
There are small eating joints within the zoo, but they provide basic snacks and not a proper meal. So, if you are going for a day-outing (Yes! You would need an entire day to visit all the enclosures), then it is better to carry your own food. The nicely trimmed lawns and gardens make the place a great picnic spot.
Suggestive itinerary for the city tour:
Day 1:
- Salar Jung Museum is open from 10 AM to 5 PM. Try to reach early, so that you can finish exploring by the afternoon.
- Next, head to the Chowmahalla Palace, which is also open from 10 AM to 5 PM.
- Charminar and Mecca Masjid. You can visit the Charminar from outside all through the day, but the entry to the upper level closes at 5.30 PM.
Day 2:
- Morning – Golconda Fort and Qutb Shahi Tombs
- Evening – Hussain Sagar Lake and Lumbini Park
Many of the tourist attractions in Hyderabad are closed every Friday. So, you need to plan accordingly.
Day 3:
Have an extra day in hand? My suggestion would be to make a day trip to Bidar or Warangal by hiring a car. Or, if you have small kids who are completely bored by the historical places of Hyderabad, then the Zoo could be your destination.
What to eat and Where to eat in Hyderabad:
True to the nickname of “City of Biryani”, Hyderabad has a Biryani restaurant in every street corner. If you are not from the Southern part of India, then you will find this Hyderabadi style of Biryani a lot spicier. So, here is a trick: While ordering for the Biryani, request for more of “white rice” and less of “spice”. That will be less harsh to your taste buds. Now, coming to my favourite Biryani restaurants in Hyderabad:
- Paradise: It is arguably the most famous chain of Biryani Restaurants in Hyderabad. The original restaurant, located at the Paradise Circle in Secundrabad (near the Hussain Sagar Lake), is now converted to a four-storeyed food court with a nice ambience. As a non-Hyderabadi, this biryani also suited my taste the most. They have now opened their outlets all over the city, and you can enjoy at your nearest one. Also, you must try the Hyderabad special desserts Double-ka-Meetha (bread based) and Qubani-ka-Meetha (apricot-based) here.
- Shah Ghouse serves authentic spicy Hyderabadi Biryani. The original restaurant is located at Toli Chowki, near the Qutb Shahi Tombs and Golconda Fort. But, they have outlets in other parts of the city also. I had visited the one located near the Bio-Diversity Park, and the ambience was nice.
- The Shadab Restaurant is located at a walking distance from the Charminar. Taste wise, it is similar to the Shah Ghouse. It is a two-storied building, with the upper floor meant for more formal dining. Do not have high expectation on the ambience. Also, try to avoid the peak lunch or dinner hours when it gets really congested.
Apart from this, Hyderabad is famous for Arabian cuisine. My favourite Arabian restaurant is the 4 Seasons Restaurant. The original one is at Toli Chowki, near the Qutb Shahi Tombs and Golconda Fort, but they also have branches in other parts of the city. The must try dishes are the Khabsa Laham and Laham Mandi, which are large pieces of chicken or mutton on a bed of Arabic Spice Rice.
***********************************************************************************************
In the Comment Box at the end of the page, please leave a note of how you felt about my post.
If you like my posts, please allow me to send my next published post automatically to your Inbox. Please Subscribe in the form below, and Follow me on Instagram and Facebook.
In the Comment Box at the end of the page, please leave a note of how you felt about my post.
If you like my posts, please allow me to send my next published post automatically to your Inbox. Please Subscribe in the form below, and Follow me on Instagram and Facebook.
Recent Comments