It was a cool and pleasant night of the Christmas weekend of 2017 when we set off for Dooars. Situated in the northern districts of Jalpaiguri and Alipurduar of West Bengal, the entire region is well known for its bio-diversity – richness in flora and fauna. Dooars (meaning ‘doors’ in Bengali and Assamese languages) serve as the gateway from the plane lands to the eastern Himalaya and the hills of Bhutan. In this travelogue, I will take you through the breadth of entire Dooars, ranging from Buxa and Hasimara to Murti, Jhalong, Bindu and Samsing. And of-course, my story will be incomplete without Phuentsholing – the border city of Bhutan, which we visited during the trip.
Reaching Alipurduar town:
We had our reservation in the Padatik Express from Sealdah to Alipurduar. Although a Superfast express by type, the train generally runs late; and on our date of journey it was almost 4 hours late. We reached Alipurduar (commonly called Alipur by the locals) around 4.30 PM the next day. We had our booking in a hotel in the Alipurduar town, and we decided to relax for the rest of the day.
Here was our itinerary for the entire trip:
- 1st day morning: Jayanti, Buxa, Rajabhatkhawa
- 1st day afternoon: Cooch Behar
- 2nd day: Hasimara, Phuentsholing
- 3rd day morning: The elephant ride, Totopara
- 3rd day afternoon: Murti
- 4th day morning: Jhalong – Bindu
- 4th day afternoon: Samsing – Rocky Island
- 5th day: Watch tower visit, Sevoke Coronation Bridge and drop to NJP
Day 1 morning: Jayanti, Buxa, Rajabhatkhawa
We had reserved a vehicle for our entire trip. The Mahindra Scorpio arrived in front our hotel around 8.30 AM; and we started for Jayanti, Buxa and Rajabhatkhawa.
At the entrance of the Buxa Tiger Reserve, there is a checkpost of the forest department, where we provided our details and paid an entrance fee. We then moved ahead with dense forest on both the sides. We saw a few monkeys loitering around.
Our first stop was at the base of the Pukri hill. From here, one has to trek for more than a kilometer to reach the Pukri lake. The elders and kids stayed back, while my wife and I started trekking uphill along with our guide. The path along was scenic with large trees on both sides.
The Pukri lake is a natural lake and has a huge number of giant sized Magur fishes. We had taken some food (soyabean and puffed rice) to feed the fishes, so that they strike a good pose for us.
After coming down the Pukri hill, we started for the Jayanti River bed. There was no water in this time of the year. We walked on the river bed, and the backdrop of the Jayanti Hills was wonderful.
Due to lack of time, we could not go to Chhoto Mahakal. That also needs some trekking. Afterwards, we came to know that Chhoto Mahakal is a better spot compared to Pukri Lake. So, if there is time constraint, one should visit Chhoto Mahakal instead of Pukri Lake.
For trekking enthusiasts, there is trail nearby – from Santalabari village to Buxa fort, which one can explore.
Day 1 afternoon: Cooch Behar
After lunch, we started for Cooch Behar, which is an hour’s drive from Alipurduar. Our plan was to visit the Cooch Behar Palace, known for its grandeur and impressive collection of antiques once used by the royal family. Please note that, one cannot take photographs of the exhibits within the palace building. The lawns within the premises are well maintained and are a great place to relax in the fading lights of the day.
On the way back to Alipurduar, we visited 2 temples with historic importance – Madan Mohan Temple in Cooch Behar and the Shiv Temple in Baneshwar.
Day 2: Hasimara, Phuentsholing
After an early breakfast, we checked-out of our hotel in Alipurduar. Our next destination was the West Bengal Forest Department Corporation’s (WBFDC) Malangi Lodge at Barodabri, near Hasimara.
Our driver suggested that we take the longer route though the Chilapata forest. This forest range is very dense, and the drive was wonderful. Enroute, we passed a few Tea estates. We stopped at the picturesque Mathura Tea estate. At one place along the tea garden boundary, we found a small gap, went inside and clicked a few nice pictures.
After checking into our rooms in the Malangi Lodge and dropping our luggage there, we started for Phuentsholing in Bhutan. Indian citizens do not need a Visa to visit this border town of Phuentsholing. But if you wish to travel further to other cities of Bhutan (like Thimpu, Paro etc.), then you would need to get your Visa done.
The town itself needs a special mention due to the way it is organized. The roads are all neat and clean, the traffic moves in an organized manner, the houses are all well maintained. You would love to walk down the streets of Phuentsholing.
Our first stop was the Crocodile Park. I realized after visiting the place, that it is a total waste of time and money. There are only a few crocodiles, and is not worth visiting.
By this time, we were very much hungry. I had searched online beforehand, and zeroed on the Zen Restaurant, which is centrally located in the city. We ordered the following Bhutanese specialties: Bhalay (Roti), Jasha Maru (Chicken Curry), Shamu Emadatsi (Musroom curry with long chillies and white gravy).
Next to the restaurant is the Kizom Cafe, where the kids had some donuts. There is a nice park opposite to the restaurant and the cafe, where you can relax for a while.
Next we moved uphill to the Phuentsholing Monastary. It is in the midst of a very tranquil environ, and provided us peace of mind and body. One can get a very nice view of India from here.
Back to the Malangi lodge, we enquired about the elephant ride for next morning. There is only one elephant here, named Sundari. She makes 3 trips in the Jaldapara range every morning (6 AM, 7 AM and 8 AM). Cost was Rs 600 per head. You need to make the booking the day before with the care-taker of the lodge.
The Malangi River flows through the backside of the lodge. There is a small wooden bridge over the river. From here, if you are lucky, you can sight a rhino drinking water. Just behind the lodge the jungle starts – this is a small stretch of the Jaldapara forest range that is on the other side of the Torsha River.
Day 3 morning: The elephant ride, Totopara
Sundari took us to the forest, crossing meandering rivulets; occasionally stopping to chew leaves or drinking water. For the first half an hour, we couldn’t see any animal. The mahot then guided Sundari to an open area will tall grasses. There, all of a sudden, we saw 2 rhinos running towards us. They stopped a distance, and started playing and attacking each other. We took some snaps of the couple and then started our way back to the lodge.
Today’s plan was to shift to Murti. En route, we took a diversion from Madarihat to Totopara.
On the way to Totopara, we crossed several dry river beds. It was a rough and bumpy ride, and that attributed to the long travel time. The dried up river beds with the Jayanti mountain range in the backdrop was picturesque. There is not much to see in Totopara. We roamed around along the village roads for a while and resumed our journey.
Day 3 afternoon: Murti
We reached Murti in the afternoon and checked in to Murti Banani Lodge of WBFDC. After freshening up, we headed towards the Murti Bridge and descended on the banks of the Murti River.
If you are in Murti, the best place to stay in terms of location is the Banani Lodge – the river flows just behind the compound. Our cottages, Doyel and Koyel, were in a strategic position. By opening the back door, we could see the river and the bridge. In the dead of the night, it was a unique experience to absorb into the sound of the river flowing by.
Day 4 morning: Jhalong – Bindu
We started around 9 AM, and drove past the Chapramari forest area. It was a nice drive uphill. On the way, there are a couple of viewpoints like Dalgaon, which provides a nice view of the Jaldhaka river below.
Jhalong is a small town on the way to Bindu. We had plans of having lunch at the Green Island resort, which itself is located at a beautiful location on the banks of the Jaldhaka river. There, we ordered our lunch and moved towards Bindu.
I would definitely stay a night at the Green Island resort the next time I visit Dooars. The location is superb, and their hospitality awesome. A small iron bridge connects the resort to the mainland. The Jaldhaka river flows just by the resort. There are large rocks around, and one can go near the river by crossing the rocks.
Bindu is a half an hour drive from Jhalong. It was a Thursday, and “haat” (local market) day in Bindu. There were many little shops on both sides of the road leading to the Bindu Dam. The gate of the dam was open on this day of the week to enable the Bhutanese people on the other side of the border to cross over to India for buying their daily needs.
The Bindu Dam itself was gorgeous, with the Jaldhaka River flowing by. On the other side of the river are the hills is Bhutan.
Day 4 afternoon: Samsing – Rocky Island
After lunch, we started towards Rocky Island. On the way, we crossed the tea gardens of Samsing.
Rocky Island is a rocky area with the Jaldhaka river flowing in between. It was a crowded place, with tourists climbing up large rocks for clicking pictures.
From the morning, our driver kept telling that the road towards Suntalekhola was is in a very bad shape, and he doesn’t want to go there. So, we cancelled our plan of visiting Suntalekhola.
On the way back, we went to Lataguri for some shopping of handicrafts made of wood. The first shop when you enter Lataguri – Shilpa Kutir – has a good collection at a reasonable a price.
Our lodge, Murti Banani, arranges a tribal dance every Thursday, and luckily we were there that evening to enjoy the show.
Day 5: Watch tower visit, Sevoke Coronation Bridge and drop to NJP
Today was the last day of our trip. We had planned for the watch tower visit in the morning before heading to NJP for catching our train to Kolkata.
Let me first brief you about the different watch towers and forest safaris available around Gorumara and Chapramari ranges. The forest department arranges for visit for the following watch towers in 4 shifts daily:
- Gorumara – Jatraprasad and Rhino Point watch towers
- Chapramari
- Chandrachur
- Chukchuki
- Medla – This one is the only one that is open throughout the year
The Forest department office as well as the watch towers and safaris are closed on Thursdays, except during the peak season. It is advisable is to visit Gorumara in the 1st shift and Chapramari in the 4th shift.
Unless you stay in the Murti Banani lodge, you have to queue up early in the morning in front of the Forest office in Lataguri to get permission to visit Gorumara. You can obtain the permission for Chapramari trip from the booth just outside the Banani Lodge.
If you are not staying in the Banani, you can talk to the Resort to arrange for a tout to queue in the morning, but you need to be physically present (with photocopy of your ID proof) when the permission is granted.
For our visit, we had booked the 2nd shift starting at 9 AM. Around 8.30 AM, a moss-green gypsy came in front of the gate. As this was our final day, and we had to check out of the lodge, we packed our bags and kept them in our Scorpio. And, we told our driver to come to the entrance of Jatraprasad after 1 hour and pick us up.
At the entrance of Gorumara National Park, few Gypsys had already arrived and queued up to enter the forest. I had to get down and sign a register.
On the way to the Jatraprasad watch tower, we saw a few peacocks, two deer and a big wild squirrel. Unfortunately, from the Jatraprasad watch tower, we couldn’t see a single animal (although Jatraprasad is the most recommended one).
We saw a 2 tamed elephants on the way to the Rhino Point watch tower. From here, you can also view the Kanchenjunga range on a clear day. Beside this watch tower is the Gorumara forest lodge, where only the VIPs can stay. Unfortunately from here also, we couldn’t see any wild animal – only a few peacocks and some tamed elephants.
Our car was waiting for us at the entrance of the Gorumara National Park, and we headed towards Chalsa and Mal Bazar. This was a longer route to Siliguri-NJP, but we preferred this one due to its scenic beauty road that goes through Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary.
We also passed the iconic Coronation Bridge over River Teesta at Sevoke. Walking over the bridge will present you a magnificent view of the river and the green forest around.
Like every good thing, the trip also had to end, and we boarded our train in the evening for our way back to Kolkata.
***********************************************************************************************
In the Comment Box at the end of the page, please leave a note of how you felt about my post.
If you like my posts, please allow me to send my next published post automatically to your Inbox. Please Subscribe in the form below, and Follow me on Instagram and Facebook.
In the Comment Box at the end of the page, please leave a note of how you felt about my post.
If you like my posts, please allow me to send my next published post automatically to your Inbox. Please Subscribe in the form below, and Follow me on Instagram and Facebook.
Really, you have described the tour very nicely. It will help me a lot. I am thankful to you.
Nice pics, vivid contrast between plains and the mountain ranges, this is awakening the travel bug inside all of us!