Road Trip to Bidar from Hyderabad

Bidar, located on the Deccan plateau in the North-eastern part of Karnataka, is an ideal destination for a road trip from Hyderabad. The State Department of Archaeology gave it a nickname of “City of Whispering Monuments” due to the presence of around 30 tombs in and around Bidar. The most important place here is the citadel of the Bidar Fort. The art and architecture found here is a mixture of Hindu, Turkish and Persian cultures.

Bidar had been under the rule of different dynasties like the Tughluq, Bahmani, Barid Shahi, Adil Shahi, Mughal and Nizam. It became the capital of the Bahmani dynasty, when Sultan Ala-ud-Din Bahman Shah shifted the capital from Gulbarga (Kalburagi). “Bidri-ware”, a unique and intricate metal handicraft influenced by Persian art, originated here during the rule of the Bahmani Sultans,. It is from “bidriware” that the place got its name as Bidar.

Reaching Bidar:

During the winter weekends, many tourists from Hyderabad visit the Bidar Fort. In order to beat the rush, we started early in the morning. Our journey through the Mumbai Highway was a breeze, without much traffic en-route. After Zaheerabad, we took a turn to the state highway and after a while stopped at a roadside eatery for breakfast.

Further down the way, we were suddenly blinded by a dazzling white structure. Made of white marble, this dargah of Hazrath Multani Baba Gangwar Shareef resembles a miniature Taj Mahal. In the middle of nowhere, the place looked like an oasis in a desert. We stopped our car for a while, took a short stroll around and then continued our journey.

We entered the old part of the city of Bidar through Fateh Darwaza, a ruined fort entrance with a short serpentine pathway. A little ahead is the Chowbara, a cylindrical clock tower at the middle of a four-road crossing. There are four clocks at the top, one in each direction.

Madrasa of Mahmud Gawan:

Our first major stop was at the Madrasa of Mahmud Gawan, a major centre for learning during the Bahmani Empire. Mahmud Gawan, Prime Minister of the then Sultan, built this three storied building. It housed lecture halls, library and a mosque and represented the Indo-Islamic form of art. During the rule of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb, part of the structure was badly damaged, when gunpowder stored inside exploded.

Bidar Fort:

About a Kilometre ahead from the madrasa is the most prominent site of Bidar – the Bidar Fort.

We entered through the outer gate – the Sherja Darwaza. A wide passage connects it to Gumbad Darwaza, the enormous main entrance to the fortress, with a large dome on the top. On both sides of the gate are high walls, with a trench that runs along the perimeter.

Just after the entrance, on our left, was the Rangeen Mahal, or the “Coloured Palace”. It is under lock and key for the general public. So, we approached the official of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and he granted us permission.

Once inside, we were amazed by the floral patterns, glazed tile mosaic and decorations with nacre (mother of pearl) on the walls and the ceilings. The beautiful wood carvings, calligraphic text and stucco art depicted here are fascinating.

The palace itself is large, with many big rooms and a courtyard at the centre and at the back. We went to the terrace, and almost came to a touching distance of the large dome of the Gumbad Darwaza.

Opposite to the Rangeen Mahal is the Fort Museum. It has a wide collection of art work, inscriptions and artifacts unearthed from the surrounding region.

A little ahead is the Hazar Kothri. It is a gated and walled area with a big central courtyard and rooms along its boundary. It also has secret underground rooms, but they are now closed.

Next we visited a walled enclosure that houses the Gagan Mahal, Tarkash Mahal and the Solah Khamba Masjid. All the three buildings are closed for the general tourists. But, along with Rangeen Mahal, we got special permission to enter the Solah Khamba Masjid.

This mosque is one of the largest in India. Its exterior is grand, with a majestic black central dome in the middle. The inside area is tranquil, with ‘Solah’ or 16 massive flower-decorated pillars dividing the huge prayer hall into separate aisles.

A small pathway by the side of this enclosure led us to the back side of the fort area. Not many visitors frequent this vast ruined portion, dotted by dilapidated buildings and gateways. The prominent one here is the Takht Mahal, the royal residence of the Bahmani Sultans. It was a grand structure, with exquisite stone carvings and decorations with coloured tiles. Takht Mahal, along with Tarkash Mahal reflects the Persian style of art and architecture.

An elevated concrete platform bordered by crumbling walls on two sides points to the existence of the Diwan-i-Am or the Hall of Public Audience. The structures around, that include the King’s chamber, the minsters’ rooms etc., are all in shambles.

This is the end of the fort area. There is a small road beside Diwan-i-Am that connects to nearby villages. The local villagers on motorbikes make a short-cut through the fort premises using this road.

Gurudwara Nanak Jhira Sahib:

Nanak Jhira Sahib is a Sikh Gurudwara, perched on a valley with hills on three sides. Considered as one of the most holy places by the Sikh devotees in India, pilgrims visit from faraway places.

The huge campus also has a free Community Kitchen (Guru Ka Langar), a large Sarovar (pool) and Guest Houses that offer rooms on rent.

We visited the gurudwara, where we received the prasad of hot halwa. Then we had our lunch in the langar, along with a cup of hot tea. In case you do not wish to have food here, there are a few Punjabi restaurants at the bend of the road that leads to the main gate.

After a leisurely walk inside the compound, we started our return journey. On the way, we had planned to visit some more spots.

Bahmani Tombs and Tomb of Hazarat Khalil Ullah:

The Tomb of Hazarat Khalil Ullah is situated in the Ashtoor village, around 8 KM from the gurudwara. It is also known as Chaukhandi. The octagonal two-storied monument was built over the grave of the Sufi saint Khalil-Ullah Kirmani, who played an important role in the socio-political spheres during the Bahmani rule. Magnificent calligraphy, floral designs and rich tile work adorn the walls of this building.

A little ahead of Chaukhandi, are the Bahmani Tombs. Used mainly as the relaxation zone by the local residents, this sprawling area contains twelve tombs of Bahmani Sultans in a row. The huge structures with splendid arches and lofty domes reflect the Indo-Islamic form of art, with a strong Persian influence. The tombs of Sultan Allauddin Shah-II and Ahmad Shah-al-Wali still stand tall beside some of the ruined ones.

After loitering around and taking some rest under the trees, we started for our last stop — the Narsimha Jharna Mandir.

On the way we passed the large walls of laterite rock formation on both the sides of the Ring Road. It was already evening, and the golden glows of the setting Sun reflecting on the red façade created a spectacular view.  

Jharani Narsimha Mandir or Narsimha Cave Temple:

It is a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Narasimha. Here, the idol of Narasimha and a Shiva linga are inside a cave. Devotees have to wade through waist-deep water of a tunnel to reach the cave. Due to some reason, the security persons stopped us before the entrance of the tunnel, from where we came back.

By now, it was getting dark. So, we started our journey towards Hyderabad.

Some useful tips and information:

How to travel to Bidar:

Although there are a few trains from Hyderabad to Bidar, it is better to travel by road. Also, state-run buses connect Bidar to Hyderabad. The buses start from the MGBS bus stand.

If you are travelling by a public vehicle that doesn’t have an inter-state permit, be ready to pay a fine at the Karnataka border police check-post.

The Best Time to visit Bidar:

The winter months are the best to visit Bidar. You can also visit during monsoons, when the abundance of greenery would be blissful.

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