Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal, situated in the northern Karnataka, were the major hubs of art and culture during the Chalukya Dynasty. Aihole started as the place of experimentation of temple architecture, which paved the way to the rich art form of Pattadakal. The Chalukyan kings established their first capital at Aihole, and later shifted it to Badami (or Vatapi). UNESCO has now recognized Pattadakal as a World Heritage Site. These three places are situated a short distance from each other. We covered them as part of the second leg of our Hampi tour.
Our itinerary:
- Day 1: Start from Hampi in the morning. Visit Aihole and Pattadakal. Overnight at Badami.
- Day 2: Visit Badami. Travel to Hospet for our return journey.
You can also plan for a same-day visit of these 3 places from Hampi or Hospet. But it will be very hectic. Also, you will not be able to cover all the major places of attraction.
Day 1: Aihole and Pattadakal
Reaching Aihole:
We had booked a car for the entire trip, and started from our home-stay in Hampi around 9 AM. After we crossed the Hospet town, we came across the huge arched entrance of the Tungabhadra Dam. We stopped at the parking and inquired if we can visit the dam. The security persons informed us that, we need to take a bus inside to visit the dam, and we need to wait for other tourists so that the bus gets full. With no other tourist in view, we decided not to waste our time and moved on.
The journey to Aihole was through state highways and was smooth and uneventful. We reached there around 12 noon.
About Aihole:
Aihole was the experimental ground of art during the Chalukya Dynasty. There are 120 stone and cave temples spread across the Aihole village, and many more sculptures strewn in open fields. Most of these temples are Hindu, a few are Jain and there is one Buddhist temple.
The major attraction here is the Durga Temple complex, which houses 6 temples and a museum. If you are a 1-day trip, you can only cover this compound. Again, if you are a lover of ancient art and architecture, even a couple days would be less to cover all 120 temples.
Durga Temple Complex:
Durga Temple is the most iconic structure of Aihole. Its name is misleading. It is actually Sun Temple, and not named after the goddess Durga. It derived its name from “Durg” or Fortress.
The temple is majestic from every angle, and the intricate carvings on the walls and pillars made us spellbound.
As you move ahead, you will find the Aihole Museum and Art Gallery. It has a vast collection of excavated statues, artwork and temple parts found in and around Aihole.
Next we came to the Lad Khan Temple, a Hindu Shiva Temple. The obvious question that pops up is that, why a Hindu temple is named after a Muslim person. Strangely, no one knows its original name. The temple was named after Lad Khan, a general of Adil Shah of Bijapur. He used to stay and operate from here, much later after the fall of the Chalukyas. The pillars of the temple are massive and finely engraved.
There are a few more temples in close proximity – Suryanaryana Gudi (Sun Temple), Gaudara Gudi (Bhagavati Temple), Chakra Gudi and Badiger Gudi (Sun Temple).
It was Lunch Time !!!
By the time we completed visiting the Durga Temple Complex, we were very hungry. The crossing on the main road seemed to be the most prominent place of Aihole, and we looked for a restaurant to have lunch. We got some small bakeries and refreshment shops, but the kids started demanding for a proper meal.
Luckily, Google Maps directed us to the KSTDC Hotel Mayura Yatri Nivas, a government run hotel with an attached restaurant. It is a large and clean property, where you can stay overnight if you plan to explore Aihole in detail. The food also was tasty.
Few more temple hopping in Aihole:
Our first stop after lunch was the Huchchimalli Temple complex, which has a Mukha mantap, a Ranga mantap, a Shiva Temple and a Pushkarani.
Next we visited the Ravanaphadi, a rock-cut shrine of Lord Shiva. It has spectacular sculptures; most notable is the life-size carving of dancing Shiva with ten hands.
The Mallikarjuna Complex is at the crossing of the road from Durga Temple to Pattadakal and the dirt-path from Ravanaphadi. It has five shrines and a Pushkarani. It also provided us a nice view of the Meguti Jain Temple on the hill-top.
Opposite to the Mallikarjuna Complex, are the Gauri Temple and Jain Temple. Being a hot summer day, we saw local people sleeping inside the temples.
The Jyotirlinga Temple complex consists of 16 temples of different sizes, most of them in a ruined state. Each of them has a wonderful display of art.
The Meguti Jain Temple is interesting not only from the artistic angle, but also for the splendid 360-degree view of the entire Aihole village. A small alley beside the Mallikarjuna Complex will lead you to the flight of steps to the hill-top. You can also see the Malaprabha River from the western boundary wall.
You can spend more time in Aihole, visiting other important temples like Ambigera Gudi Complex, Huchchappaayana Matha, Rachigudi Temple, Hallibasappa Gudi, Kunti Temple complex, Trimbakeshwar Temple etc. But in that case, you will have to shelve your plans of visiting Pattadakal for the next day.
Pattadakal:
It took us around 20 minutes to reach Pattadakal from the Mallikarjuna Complex in Aihole.
After Hampi, the Pattadakal Group of Monuments is only the second UNESCO World Heritage Site in Karnataka. Here, most of the structures and temples are inside one large compound. The experimentation that started in Aihole culminated in the masterclass of art and architecture in Pattadakal.
Pattadakal means the “Place of Coronation”, and was used as the site of coronation of different kings of the Chalukya dynasty. The place is also considered holy, as the Malaprabha River makes a northward turn towards the Himalayas.
The temples here showcase a fusion of North Indian and South Indian (Dravidian) style of architecture. All the temples in the main complex are dedicated to Lord Shiva. Out of these, 4 temples – Kadasiddeshwara Temple, Jambulinga Temple, Galaganatha Temple and ChandrsekharaTemple reflect the North Indian style. The Sangameshvara Temple, Mallikarjuna Temple and Virupaksha Temple demonstrate the Dravidian style of art; and the Papanatha Temple is a fusion of the two.
As you enter the temple complex, you would be welcomed by carpet of green manicured lawns, with the temples at a distance. Start your exploration with the Kadasiddeshwara Temple and proceed towards Virupaksha Temple and Mallikarjuna Temple. Each of the temples reflect rich Chalukyan sculptural art famous for its grace and vigour, rich imagination and delicate details. Here, the artists have sculpted, apart of figures of gods and humans, stories from Ramayana, Mahabharata and Panchatantra.
Virupaksha Temple is the largest of all monuments in Pattadakal. It has separate Maha dwar (entrance), Nandi mandapa, Mukha mandapa (balcony), Shabha Mandapa and Garva griha. This is the only temple among all the ones in Aihole and Pattadakal where you can offer your prayer to the god.
It took us an hour and half to visit the entire complex. Exhausted, we cooled ourselves with tender coconut water. There are only a few small shops around, so do not plan to have a heavy meal like lunch in Pattadakal. Also, beware of the monkeys here.
On the way to Badami, we took a small detour to visit the Jaina Temple, the only temple away the main temple complex. It reflects the Dravidian style, and is probably less significant from its siblings inside the main complex.
Reaching Badami:
Badami is around 22 Kilometre from Pattadakal. We had our reservation in the Karnataka government run KSTDC Hotel Mayura Chalukya.
The weather being hot and considering that we have to climb two different hills, we decided to start very early in the morning to avoid the heat. Accordingly, after having an early dinner in the in-house restaurant, we retired for the day.
We tasted the Jowar Roti, the Indian flat-bread or chapatti made of jowar, which is a speciality of this part of Karnataka.
Day 2: Exploring Badami
Badami got its name from the colour of “Persian badam” or almond. Here, the rocks and stones have the “badami” colour, and hence the name.
Coming to the topography of place, two giant sandstone hills – the Southern Hill and the Northern Hill are located on two sides of the Agastya Lake. The rock-cut cave temples are carved out of soft sandstone of the Southern Hill. The caves are at different altitudes. You have to climb gentle steps, in total around 200 in number, to reach each of them.
The Northern Hill has the Archaeological Museum at its base and the Lower Shivalaya, Upper Shivalaya and the Badami Fort at different altitudes.
Badami Rock-Cut Cave Temples:
We got up at the crack of the dawn, managed to pull the kids out of the bed, and started for the Cave Temples. We reached around 6 AM and were the only tourists around. The person at the booking counter also didn’t seem to expect us at that hour.
The first cave, or Cave 1, is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The cave depicts an eighteen-armed dancing Shiva in different dance postures. The ceilings and pillars also adorned by exquisite sculptures of different forms. It also has a beheaded Nandi Bull inside.
The Cave 2, a little higher up, was excavated for Lord Vishnu. Though smaller than the Cave 1, it also has a similar floor plan and demonstrates different aspects of Hindu theology and art. The carvings on its walls include different Hindu gods and the Puranic episodes of Samudra Manthana and Krishna’s exploits.
From the Cave 2 onward, you would get a view of the serene Agastya Lake on your left.
The Cave 3, also dedicated to Lord Vishnu, is the largest of the four caves. The walls of the cave have intricately carved large sculptures of Trivikrama, Anantasayana, Vasudeva, Varaha, Harihara and Narasimha. The pillars have narrative friezes of Mahabharata and Puranas. There is a bench outside the Cave 3, where you can sit and relax.
The Jain Tirthankaras were worshipped in the Cave 4. Inside the temple are sculptures of Bahubali, Parshvanath and Mahavir.
As we climbed up the stairs, the Sun began to peep out of the eastern horizon. Its golden glows on the “badami” sandstones and rocks gave rise to a sense of eternity.
There are lots of monkeys on the steps and in the Parking Lot. But unlike the ones in Hampi and Pattadakal, the creatures here are too much stubborn. They will try to pull and snatch anything and everything hanging out of your body. So beware.
If you are on a 1-day trip, it would probably be the time to bid goodbye to Badami. If not, follow me to the amazing other half of the Badami tour.
A trek in the Northern Hill:
As you exit from the backside gate, you would find a small mosque on your left – the Jamia Masjid. It was built much later, probably when Tipu Sultan had taken over the reign of Badami.
A short walk through a passageway, with small huts of local residents on both sides, led us to the base of the Northern Hill. One side of the base has been re-structured to build the Archaeological Museum. In Badami, all the sites open at 6 AM, except the museum which opens at 9 AM. The museum has sculptures, inscriptions, statues and artwork on display.
We started our journey towards the Lower Shivalaya through the rugged sandstone outcrops on both sides. The steps and gently sloped pathways here are easy to climb. On the way, there are gateways with carved sculptures.
The Lower Shivalaya is perched on a high point overlooking the Badami town. It represents the Dravidian style of art. At present, what remains is the inner sanctuary of the original structure. You will also get a clear view of the Upper Shivalaya from here.
As we continued upwards, we took a small diversion for the Badami Fort. Walking over a flat plateau-like surface took us to the small fortified area. The fort itself is not very interesting, but gives a bird’s eye view of the entire town below. The kids enjoyed the reverberation of their shout against the walls of the fort.
Coming back to the original route, we passed a ruined well, large domed structures and remnants of gateways. The Upper Shivalaya stands on a wide flat surface at the highest point of the Northern Hill. The temple is just across the Agastya Lake and the Cave Temples, and caters to stunning views. It is also built in the Dravidian style. Vivid carvings adorn its walls and base.
Agastya Lake and Bhootnath (Bhutanatha) Temple:
After exiting the Northern Hill, we walked along the pristine Agastya Lake, and reached the Bhootnath Group of Temples. Situated on the Eastern side of the lake, this compound houses 4-5 temples, largest being the Bhootnath Temple. All the temples here also are ornamented by rich and exquisite sculptures and carvings of different Hindu gods.
The area inside the compound is large and we walked the entire length. The turquoise green lake with the golden brown rock formation aroused in us a sense of bliss.
If you manage to reach Badami by the early evening, make it a point to come to here for a mesmerizing view of the sunset.
It was almost 10.30 AM and the Sun was scorching over our head. We walked to the parking lot, and then came back to our hotel.
Today was the last day of our trip. After lunch, we started our journey towards Hospet to catch the train to Hyderabad.
Nearby, there are a few temples of religious importance – the Banashankari Temple (on the way to Hospet, if you take the direct road and not via Aihole), Shivayoga Temple (diversion from Banashankari Temple) and Mahakoota – that you can also visit.
Some useful tips and information:
How to travel to Aihole, Pattadakal and Badami:
The nearest rail-head is Badami. You can base your trip in Badami, and visit all the three places. Otherwise, you can plan this trip along with the Hampi trip; and travel from Hospet by road.
Car Rental from Hampi:
We took the car rental from Ajjayya Tours and Travels (Contact: +91-99644-98598, 91521-23053). They charged us Rs. 6000 for 2 days, including the driver allowance.
The Best Time to visit:
The best time to visit is during the winter months of November to January, when the weather is pleasant. You can also visit during the monsoon, when the entire region will be covered with a vibrant yellow carpet of Sunflower plants.
We visited in the end of February 2020, and it was already very hot. So, you can imagine about the condition during summer.
Who will guide you during the trip:
Local guides are available at all the 3 major points of interest – Aihole Durga Temple complex, Pattadakal Temple complex and Badami Caves. But, you can be your own guide, if you read the descriptive literature written on stone slabs outside each monument.
About Hotel Mayura Chalukya:
Hotel Mayura Chalukya is a Karnataka government-run hotel. The property has a big parking space and an in-house restaurant where the service was prompt and the food tasty.
We had booked an AC Semi Deluxe room. As we had kids with us, they allotted a big room with a king bed and a single bed. The usual check-out time was 11 AM, but they entertained our request of late check-out at 12 noon.
You can book the rooms online directly through the KSTDC website or using the private online travel portals.
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If you like my posts, please allow me to send my next published post automatically to your Inbox. Please Subscribe in the form below, and Follow me on Instagram and Facebook.
Excellent writing sir… gone through both hampi and badami blogs.. your detail description have helped me as a guide in my last tour in this area..
Hello Hindol, nice to know that my Blog has helped you in exploring these places.
this is a nice blog. I mave informed what I need. It helped me very much
Good to know that my blog helped you with your planning.
outstanding.. thank you sir.. your excellent description have guided me and helped me a lot in my travel in this region..